The Long History of Bere Mill and the River Test

Posted on 20 December 2023

The Long History of Bere Mill and the River Test

Nestled in the verdant heart of Hampshire, Bere Mill has a lineage entwined with the ebb and flow of the River Test. This relationship between landscape and man, stretching back to the Ice Age, has seen the mill and its surrounding land evolve through centuries, taking on roles from industrial to agricultural, and to the present-day idyllic residence with its own farm and butchery.

The Historic Mill and the River Test’s Role

The River Test was formed approximately 10,000 years ago from a melting ice cap as the last ice age retreated. In that time, it has seen history unfold from the earliest appearance of neolithic peoples to the modern day.  During the 9th century AD, the River Test witnessed the rise of a Saxon mill on its banks, which was immortalized in the Domesday Book. To our knowledge, this was the first mill on the Bere Mill site as no records before this remain. It was likely used for grinding grain into flour, but other uses have been associated with Saxon mills across England.  The late 17th century saw the construction of water meadows, essential to the landscape and agriculture of the time.  The mill at Bere Mill was rebuilt in 1712, and in 1718 it was leased to Henri Portal as he saw the opportunity for the mill to become an industrial building once again. Henri Portal used the mill for papermaking, and this meant Bere Mill became central to local industry. In 1724 Henri Portal won the contract to supply the Bank of England's banknote paper; Bere Mill was now on the map! During the late 18th century, the demands of the mill changed, and it was transformed once again into a corn mill. Bere Mill has had many lives, and the power of the River Test has supplied it with energy for all sorts of purposes. In 1904, a new form of power arrived as the mill was converted once again, this time as a hydroelectric water mill that provided electricity for the mill, home and farm. Sadly by the 1990s, the mill had fallen into disrepair and the Portal family finally decided to sell the property. The Nabarro family's acquisition in 1993 led to a thoughtful renovation, honouring its past while transitioning to modern-day comforts.

Chalk Streams: A Natural Wonder

The River Test is more than just a body of water; it's a chalk stream; a rare ecological gem with only 200 known globally. These streams offer pristine habitats for diverse species, including the water vole and brown trout. Over centuries, human activities have shaped the surrounding landscape, leaving behind remnants that tell tales of gin distillation, paper production, and even watercress cultivation and fly-fishing. Chalk streams are a globally significant habitat that are in dire need of protection and restoration. Having a chalk stream running through Bere Mill is an honour, and the family work very hard to protect the River Test and find opportunities for restoration where possible so that the irreplaceable biodiversity of the chalk stream is preserved. 

Water Meadows: A Restoration Collaboration

Water meadows, a hallmark of Hampshire's agricultural landscape up until the 19th century, were an innovative response to the county's need for fertile land. Ingeniously designed to harness the natural flow of the region's chalk streams, these meadows were deliberately flooded with a thin layer of water, particularly during the frost-prone spring. The water, slightly warmer than the air, prevented freezing and encouraged an early growth of grass, giving farmers a head start in the growing season. This system, known as 'drowning' the meadows, was a form of irrigation that also deposited nutrient-rich silt, enhancing soil fertility. The verdant pastures produced as a result were invaluable for early grazing and haymaking, significantly boosting sheep farming – a cornerstone of the local economy at the time. The lush growth supported by water meadows not only provided ample fodder but also improved the quality of wool and meat, contributing to the prosperity of Hampshire during this period. However, modern farming methods and changing demand meant that water meadows fell out of favour and today there are very few examples of this practice or landscape in the UK.  In 2021, Bere Mill, in partnership with the Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust, embarked on a project to investigate the use of these historic water meadows at Bere Mill. Bere Mill retains some rare visible signs of water meadows, including structures that would have been used to divert water across the lowlands on either side of the river. The family has investigated restoring the water meadows in some areas of the farm, but this is not currently achievable. 

Reviving the River Test

The River Test's journey through Bere Mill was once marred by its canal-like state and an overpopulation of farmed trout. The Nabarro family, driven by a passion for conservation, made significant strides in river restoration. By working closely with The Rivers Trust and implementing strategies like riverbank planting and promoting biodiversity, Bere Mill has not only improved water quality but also revitalized the native trout populations and other species' habitats such as water voles.  If you stand on one of the many bridges over the river at Bere Mill or around Whitchurch, you may witness the timid appearance of a water vole swimming close to the bank or nipping in and out of the marginal plants. Many birds have also appreciated the restoration work with increasing numbers of prey such as insects and small fish. In the summer, the bridge close to the butchery is often monitored by kingfishers who use the shadow of the bridge to better catch their dinner. 

Successes and the Path Ahead for Bere Mill and the River Test

The river today is a testament to these efforts, with wild trout and water voles now thriving in their natural habitats. The removal of farmed trout in favour of a wild trout regime has further contributed to the ecological balance. Bere Mill's commitment continues with regular pollution monitoring and initiatives to protect the river's flora and fauna. The River Test's story at Bere Mill is one of resilience and dedication. With ongoing projects aimed at further restoration, the farm invites the community to partake in this journey of sustainable stewardship. By visiting Bere Mill, enjoying the butchery's offerings, and supporting the conservation efforts, everyone can play a part in preserving this historical and natural legacy for future generations. Support Our Efforts and Taste the Tradition